The Hambuger Anology Rant: Food in Carrollton

Well, I've been threatening to return the Blog to operational status for some time and have been thinking on what needs to be said.  Sure, I will return to recipes soon enough but there are a few things that need to be said before we move on with tastes and flavors and it concerns the restaurant business as a whole in my fair little Burg.  From the local farmers, to restaurateurs, to people that eat.  The main problem that seems to be common ground between all of these people is that they accept mediocrity as a gold standard.  As far as chefs in this town are concerned, it's a systemic problem and it begins with the consumer and I would like present to you the simple hamburger by way of explanation.

To the The Consumer

As I sit in my little perch on Adamson Square, I see the same food trucks stop at every one of these restaurants.  Sysco, U.S. Foods, Performance Food, etc. all stop at every restaurant and deliver the same basic ingredients.  Now, I would be remiss if I didn't state that every chef in town does the best they can with what they get and some of them are damn talented at what they do, but if you think for one minute that you're getting a better hamburger from one place than you are from another, there's one thing you're forgetting or ignoring: It's the same burger off the same truck from the same factory that gets the same cows from the same commercial feed lot.  Yet, after all of this, people will swear on the grave of their dead grandmother that one place has a better burger than the other...or steak, or pork chop, and so on and so forth forever and ever Amen.

Until the people that drive the market in Carrollton understand what good food is, there will never be a Food Revolution.  I know chefs that want to put out better product but people won't pay the price for it simply because they don't know that it is a better product.  Oh, and to that one person I spoke with on this subject: Your solution of some place having a decent salad bar is NOT part of the solution.  It is very much part of the problem.

To the The Farmer

Before this pisses off just about every farmer I can think of, keep in mind that there are folks out there that are doing what they can to get this good food revolution off the ground.  This is by no means a blanket indictment of farmers as a whole but it's a message that all growers and producers should hear.

I've worked with many of you for some years now and have used your products because I believe in supporting local businesses and because I want the best possible ingredients for what I make but we all have to come to some level of understanding that would cover two areas: Price and Type of Product.

Look, I've lived by my wits as an income source for years and I know exactly what it takes to provide a product or service to someone and have them appreciate it have them come back for more of it.  I also understand, and have heard many of you express a great interest in having your products featured in our local restaurants.  That's all well and good but how do you expect your food to be anything other than a boutique product when it costs 5-10 times more than what comes off the food truck.  I know a lot of chefs in this town and they would LOVE to use more local, naturally raised ingredients but when a chicken costs $20 or when you try to sell your products to a restaurant for the same price as you sell it to the end user, then you'll be met with the same response each time you ask why they don't use more of your product and the answer is, quite simply "No one will pay $21.00 for a hamburger".

Let me give out a little trade secret here to both the consumer and the farmer:  In order for a restaurant to survive, the profit margin on their food has to be 300%  Yes, that is an accurate number and as I have said for many years, don't believe me.  Google that shit.  No, you're burger costs $7.00 a pound.  There's your $21.00 burger.  It still comes on the crappy, preservative laden bun, it still comes with hot house tomatoes from a foreign country, and it still uses production condiments.  Can you imagine the cost of that burger on a locally baked bun with all local ingredients and homemade ketchup or aioli?  No you're looking at a $27.00 burger.  I get it that you have to make a living to but as soon as people TRY to create a food culture, it will catch on...as long as people can afford it, and if the restaurateur can't afford it, then the Consumer damn sure can't either and we need these consumers to understand exactly how good your products are.

As I mentioned, there's also the little issue of Type of Product.  One of the things that I love to do with my hamburgers is season them then press a melange of caramelized onions and garlic onto the surface and grill it until it has crispy crust.  This works very well when you use black garlic which, when cooked, gets very sweet.  There's not one farmer that I know of that is growing any other forms of garlic other than what can be found at the local grocery for half the price. What else makes a burger just go off the charts for me is to place a very runny quail egg on it.  While I"m on the subject, quail eggs are the Gold Standard for a fine meal whether its in a Caesar dressing or just cracked over a steak.  However, not only does no one seem interested in producing quail eggs, they seem to be oblivious to growing quail at all, which is a product that would fly off the menu if it were presented here.

I'm not sure whether its a fear of the unknown or if people think that no one will know how to use these products but, having talked to numerous chefs in this town I will tell you this: Give us the ingredients we want. We, by God, know how to use them...and we're DYING for them.

To the Chef 

We're all in this together.  I know most of you would rather be working with top notch stuff making incredible dishes with talents that you have.  I realize that those that cook for a living do it because they wanted to create the best dishes possible.  I also realize that, if you are not the owner of your place then you have to work with what the bean counters tell you to work with.  However, as chefs, can all take an active part in creating this Food Revolution and showing the Farmers that is can be sold in mass quantities if the price is right and, at the same time, showing the people of this area what good food..I mean REALLY good food...tastes like.

If you own your restaurant, then put one dish on your menu that uses all local ingredients and bloody well charge for it.  You may not sell a ton, but you'll be making a statement to those that really do want good food that you're willing to prepare it and you'll be showing each farmer exactly what you can and cannot do for them.  If they want you to do more for them, then they will have to do something for you.  if you're the executive or the head chef, ask this of the owner just once and see if they are willing.

From my own perspective, I have plans to take this battle right to the front lines.  I can't really say at this point what I am up to but, when it happens, you'll know it and  would encourage each chef to do what they can to get the farmer, the consumer, and every restaurant owner in Carrollton on board with a movement that we all want to be a part of.  Good Food through the elimination of Mediocrity.

If you eat, eat the best you can find and be willing to pay for it.
If you grow, grow the best and people will want it.
If you cook, demand the best.  I firmly believe that if you build it and charge for it, they will come.

As always, Party Well.  Eat Better.

Love My Job

Reason #326 why I love my job.  Tuna trimmings from a fresh, high quality fish.  He was eaten raw with only soy sauce....Mmmmmmm

Sunday, Passing the Time

It is my humble opinion that this is the best way to spend ones Sunday....

My Imminent Return....Maybe.

Just a quick little note.

I haven't posted anything in over a year and I hope to change that very soon.  I am currently writing for West Georgia Living Magazine (which take way more time that one would thing), I work at my local country club, I have been making sculptures for a couple of years now, and I still do custom construction projects.  As you can tell, I'm a little jammed up when it comes to time.

However, I am making serious efforts to become a full time writer and perhaps even a podcaster and radio host...all of which will have food as a central subject.  To that end, you will be seeing more blog posts but they will probably be short blasts and pictures from my culinary adventures around West Georgia.  The more chances I get to eat, cook, meet chefs, and promote local foods means the more you will see.

Wish me luck!

First Market Demo of the Year

First, sorry the Blog is late this week.  So many things, so little time, and writing isn't paying the bills yet so, unfortunately, it comes after all else.  Alas, maybe one day.......

So anyway, Jana has been on me since last year to come to her Farmers Market and do some cooking.  She had come to the Cotton Mill Farmers Market in Carrollton, GA to see me cook numerous times and had invited me more times than I can count.  Timing was always wrong and before we knew it, the season had wrapped up and I didn't get a chance to go to Bowdon, GA for her Market.  This year, she began emailing me in February to make double damn sure she could lock me down for her first Market of the year.

The day comes, plans are made, things are set...and it's raining cats and dogs.  I asked if she wanted to postpone until the next week since my Market has yet to open.  I was informed that "This thing is on rain or shine!".  The good news is Raul, the owner of Los Palomas Restaurant had given us the use of his front patio for cooking.  I can honestly say that I was the most comfortable person that day since I was out of the rain, the wind, and standing behind to traveling stoves to keep me warm...or at least warmer than most that day.

The last pertinent bit of information is that, as usual, I had no freakin' clue what I was about to cook upon my arrival.  It is my mission and my pride to show up to any Market, gather a few things, and create.  However, I quickly realized that it had been at least six months since I had to do this, I had taken great care of a large bottle of Pinot Noir the night before, and I was staring at a table full of ingredients with a giant blank spot in my brain.  Oh, wait.  There it is.......

Crispy Fried Pork with Fig Balsamic Reduction

1 Lb. Boston Butt or Pork Loin, sliced
1 cup All Purpose Flour
2 Tbsp Smoked Paprika
1 Tsp Granulated Garlic
1 Tsp. Granulated Onion
1 Tsp. Fresh Ground Pepper
Oil for Frying
Sea Salt and Pepper

Cut the pork into 1/2 inch slices and pound thin.  Both cuts of pork (Butt and Loin) are rather tough unless pounded thin or cooked for a long time.  Simply salt and pepper the meat, then mix all dry ingredients as a dredge.  Toss cutlets in dredge and let sit for a few minutes.  Fry in oil until golden brown.

1/4 cup Black Mission Fig Preserves
1/4 cup Caramelized Vidalia Onions
3 Tbsp Balsamic Vinegar
1 cup Pork Stock
Sea Salt and Pepper to taste

Put all ingredients in one pot bring to a low boil, stirring very often.  When reduced by half or to a medium thick syrup, puree to a smooth consistency and adjust flavor with salt and pepper as needed.  Drizzle a tablespoon or so over each cutlet.

A simple little recipe that makes great finger food or a simple appetizer.

That's about it for right now.  There was another recipe that I pulled off but I will save that for later.  I know I usually have more to add but with some many project going on this year, time for writing has gotten thin.  However, I will have more to add as the season progresses.

As always,
Party Well, Eat Better
Rob

Springing to Life

If you've followed this Blog at all, you know that I typically take the Winter off.  There isn't much creation going on, the Farmers Markets are slow, and it's just not the season for new and interesting things.  Also, I'm sorry that I didn't say "Have a Great Winter" or something like that but, let's face it, it's kind of hard to have a great winter when you live for Farm Fresh ingredients.  However, having said all of these things, I decided that it was time for a rare Sunday beer and more than about time I hammered out something for the people that just keep on reading me.  Oh, and just so you know, this post will be light on the recipes but I have somethings I've been tinkering with.  This post is really about setting the tone for this year.

Tops on my list of things to mention as I pick up the laptop again is a hearty Thank You to everyone that reads, forwards, comments, or otherwise follows this Blog and helps out my stats.  Over the Winter, I have had no less than 15 views per day...even if I wasn't creating new content.  That tells me that I'm writing good things and that you are coming back to The Blog and using it as a reference as I have encouraged.  Again, Thank You!  I can honestly say that I am looking forward to getting back to it and I politely ask for you to keep up the readership.

Next, there is a cookbook in the works.  Yeah, yeah, I've said that for some time but now I have the name, the recipes in line, and the attitude that I want to apply to it.  I am in need of a publisher.  If anyone has looked into this and know whether I should get a publisher or self publish, let me know.

OK, enough of that stuff.

This year proves to be very interesting, indeed.  I have been hired as the Events Coordinator for my local Farmers Market which puts me in charge of finding entertainment...and the Chefs that will be doing the demonstrations.  This is an opportunity to not only get to know more people from the food community (and Carrollton, GA has a huge food community) but also the chance to learn from some of the best people that work the best places in our area.  The Farmers Almanac for Summer 2013 puts our regions on the border between a hot, dry Summer and a cool, dry Summer.  Hopefully, the Almanac is wrong and out Local Farmers can produce a wide variety of bounty for myself and the other Demo Chefs to experiment with.  Even if not, it's still going to be a banner year.

This part I would ask you to pay very close attention to.  We/I talk about eating local over and over to the point of nausea but there really are good reasons for this beyond the Organic angle.  Our economy is still lagging behind where experts thought it should be and it is more important than ever to keep your local economy thriving and keeping your money local is a great way to do that.  Our local Farmers Market had even gone to the point that we now take Food Stamps to help encourage better eating among those that don't have a lot.  It's all about a better, healthier, vibrant community, fiscally sound community.

The other part of eating local includes something that I have been putting my head and heart into over the winter (not to mention, quite a bit of "On Site Research") is Drinking Local.  I have the benefit of knowing a few  certified Wine Snobs and listening to them discuss the finer points of French wines and all of the attributes of the various wine regions from all over the World.  I myself have quite a bit of experience with the Worlds wines and like to think I have a good handle on things.  However, the essence of Eating Local is to know your region and the foods that not are not only are produced there but thrive there.  Our area has the great benefit of local beef, pork, chicken, lamb, and that's on top of the produce.  If one expects to have any form of fine dining experience, doesn't it make sense that the wine should be local as well?  The essence of the soil and the climate mean that the traits you find in a batch of collards can and will be found in a Scuppernong or Muscadine wine.  When I am in Michigan, I try to visit the St. Julian winery store in Dundee as I come into and leave town.  They make dozens of great wines and products including Catherman's Port and Grey Heron Vodka (which is actually a brandy, but no matter) and they all have the same trait.  I can taste that essence of cherries in every product they make and that essence, even in the distilled products comes from the land.  It's all about the region, it's foods, and pairing those with your local spirits.  I can promise that they sausages from Frankenmuth, MI that are made with local pigs taste exceptional with Catherman's Port, the same as Dennis Farms Prime Beef  Burgers can't be beat when paired with Fruithurst Wineries Dry Muscadine, and so on.  If you claim to be a Locavore and live by the local nature of your food, try the wines.  You won't be disappointed and with the recent boom of wineries in the U.S., there is no doubt you'll be able to find one, or ten, in your region.

Well, that about sums up where my year begins and I hope to make it a great one.  As promised and as always, I do try to give you something to cook on til we meet again.

Remember Suicide Burgers with Komodo Sauce?  Well, as Winter bogged on, we got seriously tired of soups, beef, and chicken and needed something new to try. Since chicken is plentiful in my freezer, I had to work with that.  In the spirit of a Suicide Burger that is slightly better for you, I offer

Chicken Burgers

2 Boneless Chicken Breast
3 Boneless Chicken Thighs
1 small can Crushed Pineapple
1 Shallot, finely diced
1 clove Garlic, finely diced
1 tsp Cajun Seasoning

Cut chicken breasts and thighs into strips then into smaller strips, the cut across the strips until the chicken is diced.  Proceed to chop with a meat cleaver or heavy knife until the chicken is roughly chopped.

Next, saute the shallot and garlic in a bit of olive oil until slightly caramelized, let cool for a few minutes, and add to the chopped chicken with the Pineapple and Cajun seasoning.  Mix thoroughly and let stand for at least an hour, over night if possible.  I like to make REALLY big burgers and this recipe make three of those.  It will make 4-5 normal sized burgers.  Make sure to brown the outside nicely then turn down the heat for a slow ride to well done but still juicy.

Well, the first Post is in the books for this year.  I can't promise one every week but know I'm back on the job and you'll know all about it if I cook it!

As always Party Well, Eat Better!
Rob

Frittering Away Some Time........

I'm just going to throw a quick post together this week.  I had some fun and came up with a great recipe on the fly and wanted to get it posted to satisfy the promise that I would.

Saturday morning arrives without much fanfare and the plan is to clean house all day, cook some stuff, and generally have a productive day.  The Blueberry Banana Pancakes had just gotten done, I had just placed a nice sausage patty on my plate, and was moments away from dumping local honey over the whole thing when the call came in.

A friend of mine was supposed to do a cooking demonstration for my local Farmers Market but had to bail do to the flu so, in need of a cook, Terra calls and asks if I can fill in.  Not wanting to leave my friends in a lurch, I packed up a bunch of stuff including my camp stoves and away I went.  Driving into town gave me plenty of time to think about what I could do on such short notice and without knowing what was in at the Market, I was really without ideas.  As is most often times the case, Gina provides a stunning bit of wisdom on my way out the door.  "You're pressed for time.  Just do something simple like Curried Squash or something".  It was a stroke of brilliance because I had spent the night before tinkering with Fritters of various forms and consistencies and before you have to ask, yes I do just go into the kitchen to tinker sometimes and since we had BBQ chicken, I wanted a spicy fritter to go with my dinner.  Which is where we begin today.

As close as I can tell, fritters come in two forms.  Either deep fried in oil or done as a small, thick pancake.  For all of the recipes that are listed below, either preparation will work just fine.  Deep frying is pretty self explanatory.  For the "Pancake" method, just make sure there's about 1/4" of oil in the pan.  Also, make sure you use an oil with a high smoke point (the point at which it begins to burn). Lastly, the base recipe is always the same for me.  It's how you adjust it and what you add to it that makes the difference.

Fritter Base Recipe

1 1/2 cups Pastry Flour
1 1/2 cups Fine, Yellow Corn Meal
**This is where the adjustment comes in.  Depending on the recipe and what other ingredients you're using, you may wish for a more fluffy fritter and you would want to add more flour and reduce the corn meal.  For something like Hush Puppies, which are fritters, you would reverse that.**
1 tsp Baking Power
1-1 1/2 cups milk
1 Egg, beaten
1/2 tsp Sea Salt or more to taste

Sift dry ingredients together and work egg in with a fork until combined.  Add milk to the desired consistency.  Deep fry heaping tablespoon sized balls in 350 degree oil or pan fry until golden brown.

With this base recipe and a few adjustments as you desire, some rather interesting creations can come up.  For what I worked on over the past few days, I'll list my adjustments to the base recipe and the additional ingredients.  One thing to take note of would be that thinner the batter, the more fluffy they will be.  The batter should be just tight enough to hold together but not be formed into a ball.  To little liquid will result in fritters that are fit only to throw at squirrels invading your bird feeder.


Standard Hush Puppies

Ok, before I go even one keystroke further:  This is by no means the "End All, Be All" of Hush Puppy recipes because everyone and their brother in the South will be thinking "You left this out!" or "My Momma never did that!"  Take this as a base recipe and adjust at will or with whatever you heard should be in there.  Use less milk and add beer, Use more of one thing and less of another.  Just don't tell me I got it wrong because there is, obviously, no "Right" way to make them!

Base Recipe from above with 2 cups Corn Meal and 1 cup Pastry Flour
1/4 cup Vidalia Onion, finely diced
1/4 cup chopped Green Onions
1/4 cup Crispy Bacon Bits

Make batter as directed above, add other ingredients, and deep fry to a deep brown.  True Hush Puppies have to be deep fried.  Anything else is just, well, wrong.


Friday Night's Fritters (Spicy & Sweet Fritters)

Base Recipe with 2 1/2 cups Pastry Flour and 1/2 cup Corn Meal
1/3 cup Vidalia Onion, finely diced
1/4 cup crispy Bacon Bit or Pieces
2 cloves Garlic, finely diced
2 tbsp Bacon Fat
2-3 Cayenne Peppers, finely diced
1/4 cup chopped Green Onions
3 tbsp Organic Cane Sugar
4 tbsp Seriously Hot Hot Sauce
Honey to drizzle over Fritters

Saute onions and garlic in bacon fat until slightly browned (some don't care for the taste of singed garlic.  I do).  Add this, including the remaining bacon fat, and the rest of the ingredients to the batter.  Deep fry in oil to delicious perfection.  Drizzle with Honey to finish

These didn't come out as hot as I really wanted and I will revisit this with hotter ingredients in the future.  On that, you can bet.

Farmers Market Surprise Fritters (Curried Pear and Pepper Fritters)

Base recipe from above with 2 cups Pastry Flour and 1 cup Corn Meal and add an extra Egg
1/4 cup Yellow Onion, finely diced
3 cloves Garlic, finely diced
1/4 cup Sweet Red Pepper, finely diced
2 cups Cooking Pears, cut into roughly 1/2" cubes
1 tbsp Curry Powder
1/2 tsp Sea Salt
Pepper to taste

Saute onions, garlic, and peppers in olive oil just briefly to give them a bit of a head start, then add the pears.  Cook until pears just begin to soften and add the curry powder.  Make sure everything is well coated with curry, remove from heat, and let stand for a few minutes for the curry flavor to come out.  When cooled a bit add to the batter and blend well.  let stand a few more minutes then pan fry in 1/4" oil at 350 degrees to a deep brown.  You'll know you have the batter right if they come out about 3" in diameter and about 3/4" thick.

Take the above recipes and tinker.  Add apples, seafood (I'm working on a Scallop Fritter), or whatever your heart desires.  Salt them when they come out of cover them in powdered sugar.  This is one of those great Blank Canvas things that you can personalize and make all your own.

I might also like to add that, for some reason, a Good Port seems to make any fritter taste better.  At least that's how it seemed Friday night.  As always.......

Party Well, Eat Better,
Rob